Coat shoulder



ET Al.-

June 19, 1928. H. J. ROCHE. JR.

con snoummn Filed June 9, 1926 INVEN OR BY )r ha gzzg /t ATT RNEY Patented June 19, 1928.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

HARRY J'. ROSCHE, .13., OF YONKERS, AND WILLIAM SCHWARTZ, OF BRONX, NEW

YORK, ASSIGNORS BY MESNE ASSIGNMENTS, T0 SEYMOUR A. STRAUSS AND IBER- TRAH J. OAHN, TRUSTEES.

Application filed June 9,

Our present invention relates to garments, and has particular reference to coats.

It is an object of our invention to provide a coat. wherein the sleeve and body of the coat are associated in a manner which renders. our construction particularly adaptable to summer garments wherein the maw terial is relatively lacking in stiffness and body.,

It is another object of the invention to provide a coat construction wherein the shoulder is rendered entirely devoidpf 1rregularities, and particularly wherein the juncture between the sleeve and the coat at the shoulder is substantially smooth and even and devoid of humps.

It is another object of the invention to provide a construction wherein the sleeve.

will fall away from the body of the coat, and particularly from the shoulder portion thereof, in a manner which is peculiarly efficient from the standpoint of workmanship,

appearance, and fit. In this connection, it-

ing the appearance of the garment and im-.

proving, if anything, the efliciencyof our invention.

Co-ordinately, it is an object of the invention to provide a method of completing the sleeve construction and association which is not only simple and inexpensive, but adapted to provide a finished construction having. peculiarly eflicient characteristics.

One feature of our invention lies in uniting the sleeve with the body of the coat by means of a plain seam. In a preferred construction, this seam extends around the entire periphery, uniting the marginal edges of both the sleeve and thesleeve opening in the coat. Y

- Another feature of our invention lies in retaining these marginal edges indirectly superposed positions throughout the marginal COAT SHOULDER.

1928. Serial No. 114,741.

portion ofthe peripheral line of union, thereby providing a rib or flange which positions itself in a manner which produces the advantageous characteristics of our invention.

Another feature of our invention lies in deliberately spreading these superposed edges along a predetermined portion of the peripheral joint for the purposes of the invention. More particularly, this spreading is made to take place along the up rmost portion of the seam. To permit this to be done, the marginal edge of the body is severed at predetermined points, this structural characteristic constituting a still further feature of the invention.

According to another feature of the invention, the raw edges of the sleeve and sleeve opening are covered over by a continuous length of tapeor piping. This piping is made to embrace both the coat and sleeve throughout the marginal portion of the joint, but to release a predetermined portion of the coat edge from said embrace throughout the balance of the joint.

The advantageous results which these featuresrender possible will be more fully disclosed hereinafter. For the attainment of the objects hereinbefore specified, and such other objects as may hereinafter appear or be pointed out, we have illustrated several embodiments ofour invention in the accompanying drawings in which Fig. 1 is an elevational view of a portion 'stantially along the line 2-2 of Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a cross-sectional view taken substantially along the line 33 of Fig. 1;

Fig. 4 is a view similar to Fig. 3 taken sub- 'stantially along the line 4+4 of Fig. 1; and

Fig. 5 is a View similar to Fig. 2, showing a modification, and having parts broken away and parts omitted for the sake of clearness.

Referring to the figures it will be observed that we have shown a coat wherein the body is of usual construction comprising a forward portion 10, a side portion 11, and a rear portion 12, these portions being united along longitudinal seams 13 in a manner which provides a coat body having a substantially oval opening therein to receive the sleeve.

tomary manner whereby they hide certain stiffening layers of usual shape and positioning. The lining pieces 14 and 15 arejoined together along a seam 16 which underlies the shoulder seam of the coat material.

For the sake of clearness, the body of the coat, constituted of the composite portions 10, 11, 12, etc., is designated in Figs. 25 as 10. The sleeve comprises a tubular construction which may be constituted of composite sections of the usual type. The sleeve will hereinafter be referred to as element 17, and it will be observed that I have united the upper marginal edges of the sleeve 17 with the marginal edges of the sleeve opening in the coat 10 by superposing these edges and uniting them by a plain seam 18 (Figs. 2-5).

This seam 18 is sufliciently spaced from the actual raw edges of the material to provide a rib or flange 19 which extends inwardly throughout the entire periphery of the juncture. It will be understood that throughout the lowermost portion of the juncture, the sleeve and the coat form a relatively acute angle with each other, but around the upper portion of the juncture, this angularity increases until, when the topmost portion is reached, the sleeve and the coat are substantially aligned with one another and the angularity has increased to substantially 180. If the superposed marginal edges of the elements 10' and 17 were retained in this superposed position throughout their entire periphery, a hump or unevenness would occur at the topmost shoulder portion. At the same time, the flange 19 has certain advantageous characteristics which will be presently described. In accordance with our invention, these advantageous characteristics are retained while at the same time obviating the formation of any unevenness around'the upper portion of the shoulder. l/Ve achieve this result by spreading the marginal edges at the uppermost portion of the periphery, and more particularly, between substantially the points 20 and 21 (Fig. 1). This spreading is. clearly shown in Fig. 2 wherein each marginal edge is shown as being doubled back on its own material, the edge 22 being disposed upwardly toward the neck of the garment, and the edge 23 being disposed inwardly of the sleeve. Throughout the balance of the periphery, these superposed edges are retained in superposed positions as shown in the lower portion of Fig. 2, and in Figs. 3 and 4. The flange 19 may therefore be observed to comprise two superposed edges throughout the major lower portion of the joint, and to comprise merely the edge 23 of the sleeve throughout the small upper shoulder portion of the joint. The structure of the coat and the sleeve are of such a nature and of such a Well-known. Moreover, the tendency of this flange to direct itself into the sleeve will be increased around the upper portion of the joint, as shown in Fig. 2, and this will be obvious when it is remembered that the portion 23 constitutes a portion of the flange referred to. This upper portion of the flange tends to support the uppermost portion of the sleeve, thereby causing it to fall away from the shoulder in a smooth and Workmanlike manner.

For the purpose of concealing the raw edges of this flange, we provide a doubledover tape or piping 24 which is continuously attached to the flange throughout its entire periphery so as to embrace the raw edges thereof. Inasmuch as the marginalportion 22 of the coat has been turned away from the portion 23, the piping 24 will embrace the coat and sleeve material throughout the lower portion of the joint, but will embrace only the edge 23 of the sleeve throughout the uppermost portion of the joint. To permit this spreading of the marginal portion 22 of the coat, we provide slits 25 in the marginal edge of the coat substantially at the points 20 and 21 hereinbefore referred to. The provision of these slits permits the lower portion of the coat margin to position itself within the piping 24, and the upper portion 22 of the coat margin to position itself jas shown in Fig. 2. The piping '24 serves to enhance the advanta eous effects of the flange l9, imparting suflicient stifi'ness to the joint and .suflicient support to the overhanging upper portion of the sleeve.

Thus, it will be seen that the construction is particularly adaptable for use with summery garments wherein the material has very little body in and of itself, and wherein a proper conformation of the sleeve to the coat has heretofore been rendered beset with many difliculties.

It will be observd that the lining pieces 15 and 14, together with the stiffening layers hidden thereby, maybe made to extend into the embrace of the piping 24. This is particularly obvious in Figs. 1 and 2, and it will be observed that the support which the rib or flange 19 imparts to the upper portion of the overhaging sleeve is considerably enhanced by this construction. At the .same time, however, it must be noted that externally the sleeve and shoulder present an entirely smooth and even surface by virtue of the doubling back of the marginal portion 22. We also preferto provide a small filler or reinforcing portion 26 within the embrace of the doubled-back marginal portion 22, the presence of this strip 26 increasing the smoothness and evenness of the external shoulder. I

Although we have so far shown and illustrated our invention as applied to garments wherein the sleeve is unlined, because of the fact that our invention is particularly applicable in garments of such at'ype, nevertheless it will be obvious that its advantageous features may also be made to perform their functions, and additional functions, in connection with sleeves which are provided with linings. Thus, in Fig. 5 we have shown a construction of this character, and for the sake of clearness we have omitted the showing of the lining pieces'M and 15 and the stiflening layers covered thereby. Where the sleeve is lined, the lining is made to conform to the tubular construction of the sleeve, and where the sleeve is formed of two complementary blanks, the lining is formed of two similar complementary blanks which may be cut out along substantially identical lines. The lining is first attached to the lower end of the sleeve (not shown), and its upper marginal edge will then conform substantially to the upper marginal edge of the sleeve. According to our invention, it is not necessary to separate these upper marginal edges from each other, nor to attach the 1ming by a separate operation which may roduce wrink ing- The upper marginal e ges of the sleeve and lining are'retamed 1n their superposed conforming positions and are treatedas a unit inthe' operation of being embraced by the piping 24. Thus, if desired, the upper marginal edge of the lining may be initially basted to the upper marginal edge of the sleeve either before or after the seam 18 has been produced, and

. thereafter the raw edges of the lining and sleeve may be embraced within thepiping 24 as a unit. It will be obvious that by this means, particularly by virtue of the basting which may be employed, the lining will lie entirely smooth within'the sleeve, conforming thereto throughout its entire area. In this way, all wrinkling and bunching is eliminated, and the finished article possesses qualities of appearance and fit which are ex- '-'tremely pleasing and efficient.

It will be obvious that various changesin the details herein described and illustrated for the purpose of explaining the nature of the appended claims.- It is therefore intend ed that these details be interpreted as illustrative, and not in a limiting sense.

Having thge described our invention and illustrated its use, what we claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is 1.. In a coat having an unlined sleeve, a'

garment fabric portion forming the body J for the shoulder underlying substantially the entire top of the shoulder of the garment from the collar to the sleeve seam and having a marginal edge portion projecting into the sleeve head to support the latter.

2. In a coat, a garment fabric portion forming the body, a garment fabric portion forming the sleeve, a shoulder seam connecting the same, a shoulder lining underlying substantially the entire top-and front of'the shoulder portion of the garment the edge of which lining projects into thesleeve head and serves as a support for the garment fabric forming the sleeve.

3. A coat comprising a body portion provided with anarm hole, a body lining and a sleeve, said sleeve attached to the body portion by a seam surrounding the arm hole portion, part of the edge portion of the sleeve adjacent to said seam. projecting within the sleeve and free of the opposed pgrt of the adjacent edge portion of the dy, and the body lining attached'to said inwardly projecting edge portion of the sleeve by stitches passing through the lining and said sleeve edge portion.

4. A coat comprising a body portion provided with an arm hole, a body lining and a sleeve, said sleeve attached to the body portion by a seam surrounding the arm hole portion, a part of the opposed edge portions of the body and sleeve adjacent to said seam'being separated, and said lining attached to said edge portion of the sleeve.

5. A coat comprising a body portion provided with an arm hole, a body lining and a sleeve, said sleeve attached to the body portion by a seam surrounding the armhole portion, part of the edge portion of the body adjacent to said seam being folded back within the body, the edge portion of the sleeve adjacent to said seam projecting within the sleeve and having the lining attached thereto.

6. A coat comprising a body portion provided'with an arm hole, a body lining and an interlining and a sleeve, said sleeve at-, tached to the body portion by a seam surrounding the arm hole portion, part of the edge portion of the sleeve adjacent to said seam projecting within thesleeve and free of the opposed part of the adjacent edge portion of the body, and the body lining and mterlining attached to said inwardly projecting edge portion of the sleeve by stitches passing through the lining, interlining and said sleeve edge portion.

7 A coat comprising a body portion having an arm hole, a body lining, a sleeve and a sleeve lining, said sleeve being attached to the bod portion by a seam surrounding the arm ho e portion, part of the edge portion ofthe sleeve adjacent to said seam projecting Within the sleeve and free of the opposed part of the adjacent edge portion of the body, and the body lining attached to said inwardly projectlng edge portion of the sleeve and to the ad acent edge portion of the sleeve lining.

' 8. A coat comprising a body portion having an arm hole, abody lining, a sleeve and a sleeve lining, said sleeve and its lining being attached to the body portion by a seam surrounding the arm hole portion, part of the edge portion of the sleeve and its lining adjacent to said seam projecting" Within the sleeve and free of the opposed part of the adjacent edge portion of the body, and the body lining attached to" said inwardly projecting edge portion of the sleeve by stitches passing through the coat lining and said edge portions of the sleeve and its lining.

9. A coat comprising a body portion provided with an arm hole, a body lining and a sleeve, said sleeve attached to the body portion by a seam surrounding the arm holepor-tion, part of the edge portion of the body adjacent to said seam projecting back within the body and free of the opposed edge portion of the sleeve, and the body lining attached to said free edge portion of the sleeve.

10. A coat comprising a body portion provided with an arm hole, a body lining and a sleeve, said sleeve attached to the body portion by a seam surrounding the arm hole portion, part of the edge portion of the sleeve adjacent to said seam projecting within the sleeve and free of the opposed part of the adjacent edge portion of the body, and part of the edge portion of the body surrounding the arm hole being folded back within the body and stretched to lie in flat condition against same, and the body lining extending freely over said folded back edge portion andattached to the adjacent edge portion ofthe sleeve.

11. -A'coat comprising a body portion provided with an arm hole, a body lining and a sleeve, said sleeve attached to the body portion by a seam surrounding the arm hole port-ion, the opposed edge portions of the body and sleeve extending around the upper v part of the arm hole and down to substantially the middle of the arm hole on the front being spread apart so that the body edge portion projects back within the body and sleeve edge portion projects within the sleeve, the remaining portions of said edges being unseparated an the lining attached to the separated part of said edge portion lining and a sleeve and a lining therefor, the

sleeve lining secured to the sleeve by a line of stitching around the arm hole end thereof, the sleeve and its linin attached to the coat body by a line of stitching surrounding the arm hole portion, a part of the edge portion of the sleeve adjacent to' said second mentioned seam projecting within the sleeve and free of the opposed part of the edge portion of the body, the body lining attached to said inwardly projecting edge portion, and avbinding strip covering the exposed raw edges of the several parts surrounding the arm hole.

13; In a coat, abody portion having a lining and a sleeve and a lining therefor,the Sleeve lining attached to the sleeve by a line of stitching surrounding the arm hole portion thereof, the sleeve and its lining attached to the body by a line of stitching surrounding the arm hole portion, the body linin attached to the raw edge portion of the sleeve surrounding the arm hole portion, and a binding strip covering the exposed raw edges of the several arm hole.

14. In' a coat, a garment fabric portion forming the body and shoulder, a garment fabric portion forming the sleeve, a shoulder seam connecting the said frabric portions, and a lining for the shoulder having a marginal ed e portion integral therewith and extending heyond'the seam and into the sleeve head to support the latter.

15. A coat comprising a body portion provided with an arm hole, a body lining and a sleeve, said sleeve attached to the body portion bya seam surrounding the arm hole portion, a part of the opposed edge portions of the body and sleeve adjacent to said seam being separated, and said lining having a marginal edge portion integral therewith and extending beyond the seam and into the sleeve head to support the latter.

16. A coat comprising a body portion having an arm 'hole, a body lining, a sleeve and a sleeve lining, said sleeve being attached to the body portion by a seam surrounding the arm hole portion, part of the edge por- -tion of the sleeve adjacent to said seam projecting within the sleeve and free of the opposed art of the adjacent edge portion of the bot? and the body lining extending into the sleeve head beyond the seam and attached to said inwardly projecting edge portion of the sleeve by stitches passing through the coat lining and said edge portions of the sleeve.

17. A coat comprising a body portion pro vided with an arm hole, and a sleeve, said sleeve attached to the body portion by a parts around the seam surrounding the arm hole portion, the opposed edge portions of the body and sleeve extending around the upper part of the arm hole being spread apart so that the body edge portion projects back Within the body and sleeve edge portion projects within the sleeve, the remaining portions of said edges being unseparated.

18. In a coat, a, garment fabric portion forming the body and shoulder, a garment fabric portion forming the sleeve, a shoulder seem connecting the fabric portions, a liningfor the shoulder, and a. composite multilayered assembly extending into the sleeve head and beyond the shoulder seam, said as sembly including the marginal edge portion of the shoulder lining which projects beyond the shoulder seam.

In testimony whereof, we have hereunto signed our names.

HARRY J. ROSCHE, JR. WM. SCHWARTZ. 

